Nicole Mallalieu Design
Tips & Tutorials
TOP TEN TIPS FOR SUCCESSFUL BAGMAKING This is an absolute must-read for anyone embarking on bag-making! It's based on all the mistakes I've helped to unpick in classes.
WHEN AND WHERE TO USE INTERFACING ALWAYS use interfacing on any bag piece where the pattern reads "cut [specified number] i/f". The facings and the underside of flaps ALWAYS have interfacing, as these are major structural pieces in the bag, and often carry closures such as magnetic clips, buttons etc. Interfacing creates structure if it is used on the body of the bag - but is entirely optional here, and using it depends on the weight of the fabric and the finished look that you require. By fusing interfacing to every piece of the outside of the bag (NOT THE LINING!!) you'll add a lot more structure and "OOMPH" to the fabric. Some fabrics wont need it, but most medium-weight or lightweight fabrics will benefit from it. It's important to remember that by adding an extra layer of interfacing to a bag piece, you are also increasing the bulk of the fabric. Be careful when you are using heavy fabrics (Eg. denim), that your sewing machine will be able to sew through all the layers at points where several seams converge Eg. where the side seams of the body meet the side seams of the facing (and sometimes there are straps at this point!), or where the seams of the flap sit between the facing and bag body. Sometimes it takes making up a bag or two in different weight fabrics to understand the balance that has to be struck between the look you require and the capabilities of your sewing machine! Click here to see the range of interfacings at Nicole Mallalieu Design
WHAT TYPE OF INTERFACING TO USE There is a huge range of interfacings available, and this can be a confusing choice. You need to match the type and weight of interfacing to the type of fabric you're using for your bag. You also need to keep in mind the finished look of the bag, and make sure there will be enough structure or drape (whatever look you require) in the fabric-interfacing combination to create this look. You might have to also use a layer of wadding, or a heavy interfacing such as Fast2Fuse. It's best to test scraps of fabric with different interfacings if you're uncertain. Medium-lightweight woven cotton iron-on interfacing suits the broadest range of fabrics for most bags. It looks like a light cotton voile, muslin or lawn, with a layer of fusible material (sometimes shiny, sometimes grainy) on one side. The weave in the fabric of the interfacing supports and gives the fabric a natural flexibility - basically, it turns the fabric into a stable, heavier version of it's former self! Woven interfacing is also very durable, and will withstand the wear-and-tear that a bag endures. Woven iron-on interfacing comes in several weights. The heavier the interfacing, the more heat and pressure required to fuse it to your fabric, so don't use heavier weights on delicate or synthetic fabric! If you want to add more body to these fabrics, use light interfacing and wadding, or follow the instructions in the tutorial on How use sheer fabrics to make a bag. A non-woven interfacing can be a cheaper alternative to woven interfacing, but will give the fabric a stiff "paper" look, and will not be as durable as a woven interfacing.
USING WADDING OR BATTING (OR "PELLON") Iron-on or sew-in waddings can give extra structure to fabric bags, and are available in different weights and thicknesses. Experiment with your fabric and different waddings to see which one creates the look you require. Like when using interfacing, by adding this extra layer to your fabric, you may have to check that your sewing machine will sew through several layers of the fabric and wadding before you proceed with making up the bag. FUSIBLE WADDING is great for bag-making, because it sticks to the fabric and makes the pieces very easy to sew together, and it holds the shape of the bag beautifully, while being lightweight. To use fusible wadding for bags, it is best to fuse a layer of medium-fine interfacing to the fabric first, and then fuse the wadding to the back of the interfacing. This smooths out a lot of the bubbles and wrinkles that would otherwise form on the surface of the fabric when the wadding is attached to it.
USING TEMPLATE PLASTIC AS A BAG BASE My method of inserting a template plastic base is included in some of my older pattern instructions. It's the way that I've always done it, but I've found that some people find it a bit tricky. Click here for a simplified method (printer-friendly version).
MAKING A FIRM BAG BASE WITH FAST2FUSE Note: See "Interfacings and Waddings" on the Supplies Page for Fast2Fuse Fast2Fuse makes a firm, yet pliable base for bags. It is a softer alternative to Template Plastic. Download the free tutorial on how to use it in place of Template Plastic.
HOW TO MAKE BUTTON LOOPS FOR BAG CLOSURES
TIPS FOR THE PURSE FRAME KITSThese will be in the next revision of the pattern instructions. 1. Go easy on the glue! (I've put this in the instructions, but I have to emphasise it again in case you're an instruction-skimmer!). Use a matchstick (or something similar) to spread the glue around inside the frame. Don't let it form "globs" or it'll ooze out on your fabric! 2. Just use a clear-setting craft glue that will hold fabric and metal. If you follow all the kit instructions for constructing the purse and crimping the frame it will hold in place forever. I've read about using very strong glues and NOT crimping the frame, but are yet to try it and carry a purse for years to test it.... 3. You don't need a special Purse Frame Crimping tool for these purses*. (There are instructions for using purse frame crimpers in the kits for people who already have this tool, but you don't need to go out and buy one). Purse Frame Crimpers are an added expense and personally I find the other method in the instructions more effective. I've read online tutorials that say to use pliers buffered with fabric scraps to crimp the frame - DON'T DO THIS!!! You can really damage a frame with pliers. 4. Follow all the "TIPS" in the instructions for the easiest, best finished purse you can make. Read all the instructions - don't just skim and look at pictures! *NOTE: Some purse shapes require the use of purse frame crimpers, but the 75mm to 200mm range doesn't. The new 300mm bag can be made without crimpers if the hard base is put in to the purse AFTER the frame is crimped. Click here to view the range of Purse Frame Kits
HOW TO USE SHEER FABRICS TO MAKE A BAGQ: "...I was wanting to make an evening bag with sheer expensive fabric with one of your patterns. What would be the best way to go about it in terms of the lining should I cut sheer fabric/interface it and then use iron on pellon? The last time I tried this, the sheer fabric bubbled once I ironed on the interfacing? What could I have done wrong? Is there a particular type of Interfacing for Sheer fabric? I used a light weight interfacing..." A: If the fabric is sheer, the best thing to do is to layer it over the top of a more solid fabric, and interface the solid fabric (a stable, woven fabric is best as a base for sheer fabrics. You may or may not have to use the pellon. First you iron on the interfacing to the back of the solid fabric, then lay the sheer fabric over the top of the right side of the solid fabric. Stay-stitch the sheer fabric in place all the way around, and then make up the bag using the layered pieces as if they were a normal piece of fabric...
This is how I made this version of the evening bag. The outside fabric is chiffon with fluffy spots in it. I used those metal handles that you can put beads on (only I didn't use the beads). It was very quick and is really effective.
NEW VARIATION ON THE SQUARED FLAT BAG..it's not so FLAT anymore!!! Request a tutorial to make a shaped bag from this pattern when you make your purchase. The BEST thing about this is that it only requires BASIC sewing skills!!!.
NEW VARIATION ON THE SMALL SLOUCH BAG
NOTES ON HOW TO LINE THE CLUTCH or BAGUETTEQ: "...The bit that is still a bit confusing … is the end part when you attach lining in the bag and sew all around, it then goes on to say back stitch..." A: It IS an awkward thing to do - that's why the difficulty rating is level 4. Don't feel bad - feel clever for being able to tackle it! You have to backstitch the facing (and the top of the lining of the gusset) to the seam allowances, working through the opening in the lining at the bottom of the bag. It's easiest if you leave the bag inside out, and just line up the seam/seam allowance under the needle wherever you can see it most easily. You wont be able to see the whole seam. As you start to sew, you just follow the seam with the needle - keeping the seam allowances to the facing side, and stitching 2mm from the seam to keep them in place... until you come back to the point where you started. It's a bit tricky, but just take your time with it and keep those seam allowances facing in the same direction all the way around and you should be ok.
HOW TO MAKE A ONE-PIECE, CURVED GUSSET FIT PROPERLY Q: Using a pattern from [a named book], I made
a bag with a long rectangle gusset that went around the sides
and bottom of a bag with rounded corners. It fitted to the front,
but when I sewed it to the back it was too short, and the bag
ended up looking twisted.
ADDENDUM FOR THE BAGUETTE PATTERN (Pre-AUG 2007) When you're making the FLAP for the Baguette pattern, you need to reduce the bulk of the seam allowances before you turn it through to the right side. After you seam the flap pieces together, you can either clip away the seam allowances in little triangle shapes OR backstitch the seam allowances to the underside of the flap, and trim off the excess seam allowances. Very sorry not to have put that in the notes.... If you're a "level 4" sewer, you'd have probably worked it out for yourself by now....
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